Andrè Leon Talley: ‘The Chiffon Trenches’
If you know anything about the fashion industry, then you know about the man who made the dream. Andrè Leon Talley is a powerful and influential figure in the fashion world, with endless connections and friendships with the figureheads of fashion design and business. Talley has achieved a great deal over his lifetime, and the eponymous ‘Andrè Leon Talley Lifetime Achievement Award’, given to designers like Vivienne Westwood and Isabel and Ruben Toledo, is testament to this. As a black man, he has opened the door to unprecedented opportunities and representation for both established and upcoming individuals yearning for visibility in fashion and journalism.
Talley’s story is unique and compelling. In his book, The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir (4th Estate, 2020), he emphasises the importance of determination, being present, saying yes and looking elegant, even if it isn’t in designer clothing, in order to get ahead. He discloses his relationships with many high-profile designers and fashion experts, as well as the reality of payless hours and the power of connections. Fashion is ruthless and competitive, and although Talley speaks of his journey in rising to the top primarily to inspire and encourage those who will come after him, we must not forget the hurdles he had to overcome to get there. A successful black man in the fashion industry was relatively unheard of during his time, and he consistently speaks about his roots and the sacrifices he had to make to succeed – as well as how those experiences have influenced him in his choice to empower black people in the industry.
Karl Lagerfeld, left, and Andrè Leon Talley, right. A close relationship.
This memoir provides real insight into life in the fashion industry, including its constant movement (flying repeatedly to fashion weeks around the world) and the luxuries that come hand in hand with ‘making it’. Talley offers a powerful perspective on success, recognising his achievements without ever gloating or allowing it to consume his personality or choices.
If you are interested in what it is like to work with Anna Wintour, then this book is for you. Talley worked closely with Wintour for much of his career at Vogue, and he is frank about their complex and rich relationship. Admired by designers and industry experts across the board, Talley’s opinion is one which matters, and his attention to detail and dedication to fashion is respected by his peers. It is this powerful bank of connections that has become his biggest selling point and source of celebrity.
I would also recommend The Chiffon Trenches to anyone who is interested in learning about those who have become successful in the fashion world. My copy has many sticky notes marked with things like ‘research x’, because the book names individuals in the industry without much preamble – there isn’t any skipping around the rope on who is who. This encourages readers to do their research, in much the same way as Andrè Leon Talley when he first started out. A must-read for anyone wanting a peek into the true world of The Devil Wears Prada, his memoir is a great starting point from which to explore the people, brands and institutions that make up and shape the future of the industry. In fashion, the power of knowledge is everything – you just have to jump in the deep end.
