Diesel-ism and the Glenn Martens Effect: Why Diesel is So Successful

"All the ingredients were there," proclaims Glenn Martens, the current creative director for Diesel. "The fun factor was there, the sex factor was there, the no-bullsh*t mentality was there. It was just a bit sleepy. I had to wake it up."

Glenn Martens knew he had a lot to work on. After joining Diesel in October 2020, he was tasked with a complete visual revamp to bring the brand back to life and restore it to its former glory. At the time of his arrival, four years had passed since Nicola Formichetti had been at Diesel as its former creative director, who had infused the brand with playful motifs. Between the two, the creative team at Diesel attempted to continue its venture on the runway, but unfortunately lost its spark during the process. Now, Glenn Martens has resurrected Diesel from the trenches of saturation and brought it to the forefront of Milan Fashion Week, with celebrities and influencers flaunting their best denim fits in solidarity with the team. In the space of three years, Diesel is once again established—but how? Let’s delve into both Diesel’s and Glenn Martens' history.

Diesel-ism

Diesel was founded by Renzo Rosso in 1978, specializing in high-quality jeans and other apparel. Originally purchased as a clothing manufacturer called Moltex, Rosso changed the name after a successful foray into stitching jeans on his mother’s sewing machine as a teenager. For the first thirty years, Diesel was swiftly embraced by the public for its rock-and-roll theme, innovative low-rise and distressed motifs, achieving immediate success through provocative adverts that attained global status.

Recognized for creating some of the world’s "most controversial ad campaigns" [Dazed Magazine], Diesel fearlessly tackled controversial topics that many fashion brands tried to avoid, all in a clear and concise manner. Given its previous rock-and-roll theme, it brought together its demographic to scrutinize the establishment, but in a lighthearted way. Advertisements included two male sailors locked in a kiss as their shipmates celebrated the end of WW2; a young man pointing a gun while text instructed parents on the importance of teaching kids to kill; a black man diving into a 'whites-only' pool in apartheid-divided South Africa—all showcased at the beginning of 1991. Diesel led the way in campaign design and its provocative nature.

In an interview with Dazed Magazine, Jocke Jonason, the leading creator of these advertisements in the 90s, detailed his experience in curating these ads: "The early 90s were quite a depressing time, the economy was bad, and people were suffering." At the time, Levi was one of the only denim companies popular in the fashion industry, with Levi holding 75% of the jeans market. "We believed that young people, like everybody else, were interested in politics, in life, in discussing things—so we challenged people’s minds. What we created was provocative, funny, but also intellectual—we more or less picked up on the conversation that was going on in society around us and made art."

The Glenn Martens Effect

Glenn Martens had a deep and intriguing history to work with, one that held many groundbreaking moments that sparked much conversation. Quite similar to his fashion journey, Glenn Martens had also been frequently discussed, primarily for his work at Y/Project and later, Jean Paul Gaultier. At the outset of his tenure at Y/Project, an already-mourning house grieving the loss of their previous designer and creative director, Yohan Serfaty. His first collection paid careful homage to Yohan Serfaty, touching on the house's motifs while still introducing new garment perspectives. Since 2013, he has been working at Y/Project, earning accolades such as the 2017 ANDAM Grand Prix and the runner-up position for the 2016 LVMH prize for his exceptional work within the brand.

Glenn Martens was quickly recognized for his expertise in leather and, most notably, denim. With a deep and enriched background in construction (coupled with extensive knowledge in architecture, like many of our fashion design monoliths), he elevated his vision in fashion houses, meticulously working with tougher materials to create impactful and influential silhouettes. This is what prompted Renzo Rosso to come knocking.

In an interview with GQ, Glenn Martens confessed, "Renzo had been flirting with me for a few years about just doing ready-to-wear, but then they came to me with the full company from A-Z," he explains. "It was like the keys to the castle, which felt much more interesting. It’s a global brand with such power—it can communicate with anyone in the whole wide world." After gaining access to over 40 years of archives at Diesel, he initiated a partnership that would influence fashion weeks to come. Sustainability was at the core of his belief when it came to Diesel, recognizing that the average fashion consumer is much more conscious than before, especially when it comes to materials like denim. Diesel has a certified supply chain and recycles all of its materials, with Glenn Martens unafraid to assert that the brand is the most sustainable denim brand worldwide.

His debut collection (SS/22), held digitally, focused on upcycling as a means of creating different textures and fabrics. By using the company’s deadstock fabric, he manipulated them using different finishes to create various types of garments. This way, you can create luxurious items without incurring excessive costs. By using this collection as a blueprint for his future collections, coupled with his revival of classic Diesel imagery (such as the logo, which has been reused since the 00s), Glenn Martens has thrust the brand back into the limelight.

What Glenn Martens has been successfully able to implement is the younger generations appeal to the 00s and 90s. Mini skirts, prints and classic denim silhouttes have peaked down the runway, bringing together youth who love the grunge and dirty look. Sexy looks like grit in a Diesel world, with dirty looking clean. Many celebrities were seen last year wearing full Diesel get-ups such as Dua Lipa in New York, Julia Fox or Kylie Jenner, tapping into influencer marketing for an impressionable audience range. While tapping into different industries and global areas, Glenn Martens has expanded the brand exponentially, bringing Diesel into the top 20 for global brands, going up 37 places from 2021.

What's in store for Diesel and Martens? One has to watch. Guest-starring as Jean Paul Gaultier's designer for their couture debut was an impressive match, but as Diesel progressively gains popularity among the younger generation, we can see a shift that will make history. Recognized as a multifaceted monolith within the industry, we can only expect the best.