FKA Twigs Is Renaissance Royalty - And It Shows
When FKA Twigs first came out with her album MAGDALENE, it wasn’t surprising that her success would continue. Songs like ‘cellophane’ immediately hit the charts, showcasing her original sounds and appealing, disruptive ambiance. Her sounds never really follow music trends, and that reflects in her fashion choices as well. In collaboration with her celebrity stylist Matthew Josephs, Twigs produces looks that are unpredictable, experimental, and regal. Vogue comments, “One minute, she’s in a vintage Galliano gown alongside her then-boyfriend Robert Pattinson, and the next, she’s rocking a tiger print coat with some casual running shoes for a day at errands. There’s just no predicting what she’ll step out in next.”
One look that caught the attention of many fans online was a Renaissance-inspired outfit that Twigs wore in an interview with Zane Lowe to discuss her upcoming tour for MAGDALENE. In the interview, she speaks about her tour techniques, mental health, and what life is like in Southeast London. The backdrop in the interview is simply gorgeous, with a gigantic two-toned curtain designed to look like a mountainous scene. Lights and other visual distractions are minimal, drawing further attention to Twigs’ radiant oufit.
Dressed in a style which can only be described as Renaissance-casual, Twigs’ dress is worn with a matching cap that is deconstructed in a subtle yet effective way. Underneath the dress she wears simple grey tracksuit bottoms, cut mid-calf and strapped in by large platform boots. The dress has frilly shoulders that morph into its silhouette effortlessly - custom-made by Stacey Nishimoto, it punkishly elevates Renaissance elitism in a way that is contemporary and refreshing. It’s clear from the get-go that Twigs will take every opportunity to dress up for important occasions, producing beautiful results in collaboration with Matthew Josephs.
Elsewhere, other looks include Twigs at Sundance in a custom Vivienne Westwood corset, an homage to the designer’s ‘Portrait Collection’. Pairing the corset with exquisite gold and sterling silver jewellery, and stripy exaggerated trousers, Twigs plays with European elitism and religious elevation.
In both her exploration of fashion and her expression as an artist, exaggeration is a key stylistic choice in Twig’s overall climb to fame. In an interview with Michaela Coel, the writer, producer, co-director and leading protagonist of hit TV show I May Destroy You, the pair talk about racism, the BLM Movement and their relationships towards their white peers: “It’s funny because we talk about Black excellence, which is an overall thing that we’ve all experienced, which is that to be acknowledged within the white community, you have to be 100 times better than your peers and do so, so well. So there’s that thing of why I think I’m so neurotic about music and dance moves and skills and craft. It’s because, [for me] to be acknowledged amongst my peers because of the colour of my skin, I feel like I have to be 10 times better than the white, blonde girl sitting next to me.” In understanding the music industry and its double standards, FKA Twigs does not necessarily visualise for the sake of racism, but it does play a part in her development process when it comes to garment creation. In her point of view, dressing ‘normally’ would counteract her push for success: “That would never cut it. I must be pole dancing, upside down, swinging a sword, directing, producing. Do you know what I mean?”
Why is Renaissance Having a Revamp?
Renaissance has been filtering through social media sites for years. Form-fitting, structured mesh and crop tops can be seen on many Pinterest boards and Instagram feeds, with Renaissance paintings and natural forms printed onto their shapes. Over time, more and more celebrities have been wearing Renaissance-inspired dresses, for instance, Cardi B wore an AW95 couture Thierry Mugler dress dripping in pearls at the 2019 Grammy’s. Inspired by Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus, this look captured the globe and marked what was to become one of the biggest revivals for Renaissance culture in fashion, shifting the taste for thrifting from vintage 90s looks to the 17th century.
The modernisation of such an influential and historic cultural aesthetic has influenced the top fashion houses, from corsets and capes to cinched bodices, reinstating silhouettes that integrate more shapes and sizes: “The overtones are romantic, ethereal and celestial, offering us a welcome escape from the horrors of the day-to-day.” With the world becoming more tech-infused, this aesthetic, with its iconic celestial prints, allows fashion innovators to breathe a refreshingly different air, full of fluffy clouds and gilded cherubs.
FKA Twigs is one of those artists who has managed to carve her own separate niche. Not only is her music deeply personal and difficult to mimic, but her fashion also breaks the boundaries of self-expression and counterculture. Her ability to stay original and unflinching is a testament to how much she has grown as an artist and individual. As a south Londoner and a mixed-race woman, she has experienced much prejudice in life, but has propelled herself into success and proved that, if you have determination, originality, and good connections, you can enjoy a life full of achievement.
Resources:
The Face – Joyride: the renaissance of FKA twigs: https://theface.com/music/fka-twigs-interview-michaela-coel-i-may-destroy-you-pa-salieu-headie-one
Vogue – FKA Twigs Takes the Renaissance Trend to the Next Level: https://www.vogue.com/article/fka-twigs-honey-boy-premiere-vivienne-westwood-jean-paul-gaultier
Dazed – Three reasons why Renaissance fashion is having a fashion renaissance: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/43323/1/renaissance-fashion-venus-cherub-depop-vivenne-westwood-fka-twigs-cardi-b