Magazine Review: i-D, Legacy & The 40th Anniversary
i-D is a British magazine founded in 1980 by designer and former Vogue editor Terry Jones. It is dedicated to fashion, music, art and youth culture, and is most accredited for its versatility, boldness and resilience, capturing people's creative visions and rebellious ideas in the format of a traditional magazine. As such, it has created opportunities and a platform for personalities and ideas outside the hemisphere of fashion. Its most recent edition, Legacy, is a homage to the magazine's 40th anniversary of publication, and focuses on elements of activism, family, and creating a sense of community for those otherwise estranged.
There were many articles in this edition that felt timely due to their focus on the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. People across the world have been impacted by the virus regardless of geographical location, and so highlighting the power of community and reconnection in a time of separation has never been more important. Showcasing all different walks of life and levels of privilege, those featured in this edition speak on their experience of the pandemic, and how the future of fashion relies heavily on what happens after it.
In particular, Gucci's Alessandro Michele in conversation with Alastair Mckimm (interviewed after a recent announcement that the house would be stripping its collections back to only two seasonless shows per year) discusses how fashion creation has significantly changed with an increased understanding of globalism, and younger generations inspiring the masses to be more critical of fashion - and indeed the world. They discuss the cultural repertoires of fashion institutions and their social effects, honing in on their inspirational power for individuals. Mckimm recognises freedom as a key instigator in his choices growing up, but with the current rise of inter-generational political conflict, it is worth considering whether young people today are still, like Mckimm, trying to break free of the systems that restrict them, or trying to break the system completely.
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I understood the power of looking a certain way because it was rebellious, but I was just being myself. I think it is very radical to be yourself.
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One structure that has always remained important in hard times is that of family. Paloma, Sage and Ama Elsesser, in conversation with Angelo Baque, discuss the ideologies surrounding legacy and how recent activism has highlighted a need for institutional change. For the Elsessers, taking up space and being visible is an important lesson imparted by their parents and grandparents, empowering them to build careers in fashion, skateboarding, music and modelling, to name a few. Recognised for their contributions to contemporary fashion culture, the Elsessers speak confidently on their relationship with one another and their professional industries.
Their conversation initiates a dialogue on how fashion and activism can intersect. With an increase in black designers receiving credit for their work, it is also the increased exposure of attitudes towards them that the Elsessers find fascinating. Sage in particular comments that with greater visibility towards black designers and creators, comes greater visibility towards their treatment within the industry: "I think as black designers get more and more popular, you will begin to see that the cards that we are dealt are very different.”
Sage's words emphasise that active discrimination persists, and there is still a lot of work to be done. There must be more black representation in the board rooms of fashion design and business. There must be more black representation on the runway and in commercial modelling. It is this potential for change that is our legacy.
This is what i-D does - it gives those otherwise without a voice the opportunity to speak and take up space. It isn’t forced or fuelled by a narrative, but brings disparate voices together in a way which produces cohesive understanding and a sense of community, as shown beautifully in this 40th anniversary edition. In spite of its polished and professional content, i-D is ultimately human in voice, promoting change and movement as its most valuable currency.