Subversive Basics
1 & 2: Clarissa Larrarabel, 3: Bcalla Bcalla, 4: Brandon Maxwell, 5 & 6: Khanh Brice Nguyen
Subversive basics is a trend taking the fashion industry by storm, exploring the deconstruction of basics as an act of fashionable rebellion. Distressing basics to the point that they lose their utility and transform into standalone fashion pieces themselves, this trend showcases versatility and highlights the fact that layers can be sexy, chic, and sophisticated. Garments like a white tank top, the little black dress and even jumpers can be transformed via overlay refinement, allowing trend followers to display limited amounts of fabric in a way which compliments the body. Fashion brands that have started producing subversive basics include Ruve, Brandon Maxwell, Chloe, Khanh Brice Nguyen, Bcalla Bcalla, and more. This trend is inspired by cutouts, keyholes, sheers, deconstruction, and distressing, and is predicted to be next in fashion due to its statement appeal in moving away from comfort and practicality.
Subversive basics is successful as a trend because of its customisable nature. Inclusive to all individuals in its androgyny, it focuses on design rather than gender-specific labels, from deconstructed leggings and other garments to expensive pre-made subversive basics with specific patterns and designs.
During the cultural angst and youthful rebellion of the ‘70s, memorialized in the popular music of that decade, Johnny Rotten (known as the father of British punk) helped build a counterculture that rejected the restricting mores of Thatcher’s conservative Britain. The first punks were highly influential in fashion, tearing jackets into vests by removing their arms and pinning slogans onto pants and t-shirts. Comfortable and purposefully non-professional denim became the punk’s material of choice, and distressed denim, especially everyday products like light blue skinny jeans, aptly symbolised their ‘tearing up’ of conservative ideology. Nowadays, distressed denim has all but lost its exclusive punk associations and can be found as the basic jean of choice in most clothing retailers, ready to buy brand-new.
The 1960s also provided heavy inspiration for subversive basics, with the summer of 1965 in particular marking the year of the crochet dress. “Every girl had a little crochet number. It was the ultimate dolly-bird dress. The only problem was what to wear underneath it. Unless you really wanted to let everything hang out, you had to get one of those new flesh coloured body stockings”, dictates a teen of the ‘60s. If you weren’t brave enough for crochet holes, the introduction of cut-outs, carefully positioned to reveal extra skin and cleavage, came to the rescue. These retro designs were later revived in the 1990s, a defiant and suggestive trend which continues to this day.
Subversive basics takes the next step in following these revolutionary designs, offering a new and innovative approach to fashion staples and paving the way for exciting possibilities in the future.
