Why is Everyone Obsessed With Birkenstocks?
When it comes to brands such as Birkenstock, it is only natural to encounter queues, given their widespread popularity at the moment.
Since the brand’s rise in popularity, Birkenstock has consistently maintained high demand among its consumer base. Over the past decade, individuals from all around the world, including celebrities, have been spotted wearing Birkenstocks, making many luxury brands debut their collaborations with the brand on prominent fashion runways such as Celine, Rick Owens and Opening Ceremony. Many fans of the brand are drawn to the shoe’s versatility and comfort, as exemplified by its cork sole that seamlessly adapts to the contours of the wearer’s foot, resulting in a unique and customized fit. The shoe’s ability to provide both comfort and a visually distinctive aesthetic has fostered a market teeming with potential consumers. However, questions arise on how it became this way — what history underpins the brands success? What differentiates Birkenstocks and propels it to such formidable competition? Material investigates.
History of Birkenstock
Birkenstock originates all the way back to 1774, with Johann Adam Birkenstock being recognised as the ‘subject and cobbler’ in Bergheim, Germany. From the beginning, the main ethos of the brand was to create shoes that contour the foot rather than creating resistance against it. Flat soles were the main enterprise of that generation, and, with the footbed being created later in 1986, the shoe was successfully mass-distributed around Europe by 1925.
In 1966, Margot Fraser, a German dressmaker who resided in California, went back to Germany and tried on Birkenstocks due to having worn tight shoes in the US. Due to the success of the shoe, Fraser introduced Birkenstocks to the US market, with poor engagement for several years. Based purely on its appearance, it couldn’t compete with shoes that centred itself visually as its main drive in sales. Birkenstocks were rejected completely from stores. In the 1970s however, there was a spike in sales due to its popularity in young men. With associations with hippies and American liberalism, the shoe became popular among the US due to its natural look. This would be a huge catalyst for its expansion globally.
Utilitarian Sustainability
Comprising entirely sustainable materials, each Birkenstock foot-bed is crafted from natural cork, natural latex, jute and suede, which servers as the top layer in its design. These renewable resources combine in the manufacturing process, resulting in a wearable, gentle and enduring shoe. As the temperature rises and the masses turn to sandals, Birkenstock has achieved widespread appeal, becoming a seasonal tradition that repeats itself year after year due to its comfort. This characteristic lends the shoe a timeless quality, enabling it to resonate with consumers around the globe while maintaining a distinct identity that sets itself apart from competitors. The essence of Birkenstock is manifested in each iteration of its signature shape, fostering unwavering loyalty and cultivating a sense of community.
Also, the shoe’s design places practicality at the forefront, catering to the preferences of numerous prospective consumers amidst ever-evolving footwear trends. The fashion industry has critically examined sneakers, particularly those evoking 90s nostalgia. Collaborations with leading sportswear companies have emerged in recent years dominating the market, capitalising on their sneaker designs, particularly those featuring platform heels. However, a counter-trend favoring anti-platform aesthetics has gained prominence, gaining Birkenstock unreasonable favour in the market. Within this comfort-centric fashion frenzy, many consumers prefer the efforless convenience offered by sandals and sleeker platforms. The current pinnacle of fashion lies in harmonising comfort and style, a realm in which Birkenstock have emerged triumphant, reaping the rewards.
Collaborations
But is it only Birkenstock that wants to be in on the new wave? Many trend predictors in-house at some of the top fashion brands would disagree. Birkenstocks have been seen on many runway collections, including collaborations with Dior, Staud, Manolo Blahnik, Jil Sander, Proenza Schouler, Rick Owens, Central Saint Martens and more. Let’s explore three of those capsules:
— Dior
In Dior’s CD 1947 Capsule, Dior partners with Birkenstock for the second time to reinvent two pairs of Birkenstocks: the Tokio mules and the Milano sandals. ‘Reflecting several examples of exceptional savoir-faire, these creations reveal a utilitarian style enhanced by sunny colours and reinterpret emblematic Dior fundamentals.’
Kim Jones has embraced collaborations in the past as a means to explore his creativity. Drawing inspiration from various resources, he infuses his distinct ‘Dior’ touch into existing masterpieces, thereby attaining unparalleled artistic freedom while making already established things his own. In the case of these shoes, Jones melds past collaborative motifs (his collaboration with inspirations from Matthew Williams, the creative director of Alyx) with his own visionary enhancements, imbuing them with a luxurious allure through the usage of silver tones and metals. Adorned with the Dior emblems, these shoes elevate comfort while exuding an aura of luxury, preserving the unique DNA of both esteemed brands. As a valuable addition to Dior’s beach collection, Birkenstock effortlessly commands the runway, cementing Dior’s position among the discography of timeless footwear.
— Rick Owens
For Rick Owens, he collaborated with Birkenstock on four different materials for three shoe styles - Arizona, Boston and Madrid, which launched from a ‘night of foot worship’ in his LA store. Partygoers had their feet lubed up, with Birkenstocks moisturising lotion, given a massage as the pre-drinks to the party for the rest of the night. With the intention to give the shoes a “subtle touch of theatricality”, Rick Owens overloaded the shoe, eschewing overloaded, frivolous embellishments, elevating the design itself by extending the straps and holes of the sandals to break free from their original purpose. Rick Owens manipulated its utilitarian usage to be more un-practical, meshing fashion and art together. Photos of the collection came from their exclusive zine, showcasing the ‘depraved elegance that Rick Owens had always aimed for.’ Photos included various poses; tiptoes, lying supine with their legs in the air, or simply standing head-on to show off the full extent of the sandals in their new materials and furs. Given to any who purchase a Birkenstock x Rick Owens shoe, this zine is a glimpse of capsule raunchiness, and we love it.
— Central Saint Martins (CSM)
In 2018, Birkenstocks gave MA students at CSM, one of the most highly respected fashion universities around the globe, the opportunity to build on their portfolio of successful shoes as a way of managing their pool of talent within the education board. For companies that want to build on making their products more bold and modern, their journey into collaborations within CSM seem natural, mainly due its yearly showcase of courageous choices within the fashion world. CSM isn’t for the faint hearted, morphing together the most brave and hard-working as an introduction to the next wave of fashion innovators, and, for Birkenstock, an opportunity to see how far their shoes can go. Four winners were picked from the pool of participants – Saskia Lenaerts, Alecsander Rothschild, Alex Wolfe and Dingyun Zhang.
Birkenstock's unwavering ability to defy the ever-changing currents of trend-setting is a testament to its enduring legacy. This esteemed brand remains resolute in its commitment to revitalizing its iconic offerings, fueling an unprecedented surge in demand while remaining steadfast to its authentic origins. Skillfully navigating through diverse sectors of the fashion industry, Birkenstock has embarked on a journey towards establishing itself as a paragon of refinement and luxury, much akin to its humble beginnings nearly 250 years ago.