— To Andrè Leon Talley
Andrè Leon Talley was more than just a critic in the realm of fashion. He was artistic, articulate and forward thinking, with a clear drive in building his reputation and accrediting himself for his wins and defeats. When students look back at his journey and where he came from, they will see how intelligent Andrè really was, knowing how to deliberately interact with each individual in his life, in a certain way that would protect and preserve his placement as a growing influence in fashion phenomena. He was deliberate, kind, understanding and a force to be reckoned, with only his passion for fashion taking precedent as an indestructible key commitment. It was fashion first; always about the clothes, the way it draped or sat. This type of passion simply isn’t around much anymore.
One of the first texts that I read about for key fashion critics was his autobiography, The Chiffon Trenches. I had already known about his contributions to Vogue, but through snippets of gossip that were really less about him and more about Anna. This text unveiled a facade of generalisations and poor attempts of gross discrediting, showcasing Andrè’s intricate delicacies when it came to community, family and identity. His level of detail when it came to clothing was simply fascinating; with analysis far beyond the typical reviewer. Andrè was able to look beyond the clothing and its references and see what messages and anecdotes were being explored by the creative directors and designers. Unveiling them in a wrapped present that opened beautifully for the reader to understand. His ability to use sophisticated language in a way that was appetising yet digestible distinguished his writing among the rest. It was like bringing a-lot of these collections and their designers to life.
For many fashion students like myself, Andrè is one of the biggest inspirations when it comes to writing. He was perceived as intimidating, but through his writing you could see his creative ebb. His commitment to showcasing fashion from all different levels of expertise was magnificent to witness, building his community from the ground up and giving people the ability to build on their dreams in fashion design. That level of appreciation for anyone who shows interest in the industry showcases ones ability to look beyond judgement of the perfectionist, but see the creative process in its entirety - no one has shown this compassion to put themselves to the side to spotlight other talents.
I’m devastated by the news of his passing, but I hope his legacy can continue through the lives he has inspired greatly. For myself, his impact in the fashion industry, as-well as his contributions to the company that has inspired fashion critique for generations, will never be able to be replicated in the way he has done it. His way of speech is original, mighty and great, not many can be undeniably themselves apart from Andrè Leon Talley.
In a short amount of time, we have witnessed the passing of many key fashion players in the industry. Though this is a time for grief and mourning, it’s also a time for appreciation of those who lead the way. Without people like Andrè, there wouldn’t be people like Anna Wintour or Edward Enninful. Without Virgil Abloh, there wouldn’t be people like Pyer Moss or Kanye West. These individuals are players in a game of identity, elevating every living being and the way they present themselves to extradionary lengths of appreciation. Andrè knew who was talented. There is no one in history that witnessed as much fashion history as Andrè did.
I may never be able to write just like Andrè Leon Talley, but I will always remember his contributions to my understanding of fashion phenomena. He has opened doors for so many, and will continue to do so as-long as his legacy continues. He has paved a way in fashion that has allowed those who want to be able to analyse fashion for more than just its literal objectification, to do so in a way that is enriching, tantalising and simply magical, for Andrè was a puppet master that brought not only his subjects, but their clothing, to life.
