Calvin Klein Spring 2024 Campaign: Analysing FKA Twigs and Jeremy Allen White
Time and time again, Calvin Klein finds itself at the center of conversation. Originating the designer jeans craze in the 1970s and pioneering controversial fashion advertising in the 80s, Calvin Klein is more than just an underwear brand. Through its marketing, the brand elevates individuals succeeding in their respective industries, aligning seasonal updates with influencers who embody confidence and sexual liberty. However, this association with influencers often comes at a cost, sparking discussions about the brand's direction.
On January 4th, Calvin Klein launched a campaign that made a powerful impact on the fashion industry. Featuring actor Jeremy Allen White, known for his role in the popular Hulu series 'The Bear,' alongside Golden Globe and Primetime Emmy winner Ayo Edebiri, this campaign showcased White in the brand's spring 2024 underwear collection, featuring new logo treatments and materials for everyday comfort, including New Intense Power, Micro Stretch, and Micro Mesh styles. Shot in Manhattan, the campaign quickly gained international success, generating almost $12.7 million in media impact value within 48 hours.
In an era where global conversations are amplified by social media, this campaign exemplifies how social platforms can reshape the perception of advertisements featuring celebrities and influencers. With an increasing number of celebrities incorporating sexuality into their work, the allure of emerging celebrities contributing to this framework is unique. White, embodying traditional masculinity through his fitness, particularly drew attention with his 'chiseled physique.' Calvin Klein, known for promoting openness in gender and sexuality, successfully expanded the campaign's audience to the general public, including the LGBTQ+ community.
For Calvin Klein, this marked a successful season, but it did not conclude the conversation.
Weeks after White's success, it was announced that FKA Twigs' year-old Calvin Klein campaign was banned in the UK by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA). The ASA criticized the campaign, labeling the artist as a "stereotypical sexual object" due to exposed body parts. Two complaints triggered the investigation, with additional focus on Calvin Klein advertisements featuring Kendall Jenner. Complainants argued that the images were "offensive and irresponsible" for objectifying women, deeming them inappropriate for an untargeted audience. Calvin Klein defended the campaign, asserting its similarity to previous ads and emphasizing empowerment and confidence. The ASA disagreed, stating that the focus on Twigs' physical features rather than the clothing necessitated removal.
Twigs responded on social media, addressing the double standard imposed on women showcasing their bodies. She challenged the characterization of her as a "stereotypical sexual object" and emphasized her strength as a woman of color. The broader issue of how society judges and criticizes women's self-presentation in the fashion industry was also highlighted. The ongoing dialogue prompts questions about the fashion industry's responsibility to advocate for change and challenge misguided decisions.
White, as a brand ambassador, and men, in general, are called upon to contribute to breaking the cycle of critique within this subjective industry. Both White and Twigs, as celebrities, deserve the right to express confidence, sexuality, and liberation without succumbing to traditional gender norms. In advertising and marketing, consent is crucial, and stripping individuals of ownership devalues their choices. The hope is to see Twigs' campaign reinstated in the UK, offering a chance for everyone to appreciate the portrayal of a confident black woman.