Qin Huilan and Miu Miu: The Adversity of Ageism
When you think of Prada, Miu Miu inevitably comes to mind too.
Under the leadership of the prestigious Miuccia Prada, Miu Miu presents an unrestrained vision of creativity and flair. As a brand intentionally distancing itself from traditional aesthetic norms to feature playfulness, Miu Miu continually amplifies the liberated strength of fashion and presentation. Already celebrated as the ‘IT’ brand for several years, demonstrated through as the recipient of accolades like Elle Magazine’s ‘Outfit of the Year 2022’ and Fashion Museums ‘Dress of the Year Award’ for its viral miniskirt, Miu Miu clearly runs excels in their statement moments. Founded in 1993, this brand exudes provocation, complexity and sensuality.
For FW24, which was unveiled in early March, their most recent runway showcases a contemporary fusion of fashion eras. This collection harmonises generations of styles into one cohesive vision. While another house might struggle with such a vast theme of exploration, Miu Miu navigates it with finesse. The show opened with double-breasted coats, epitomising Miuccia Prada’s nearly flawless tailoring. Pearls dominated as the main accessory, underscoring the enduring appeal of the resurgence. Faux mink accents glided across the collection, evoking dreams of grandeur while the dresses embodied glamour and possibility.
Yet, a subtle detail escapes many observers’ notice. Among the models striding down the runway, one stands out– not just for her brilliance but for her significance in representing a community of people. Qin Huilan, Miu Miu’s most loyal and prominent client, graces the catwalk.
Huilan donned a long grey knee-length coat adorned with metallic-like blooms, paired with a white shirt whose larger collar melded seamlessly into the coat’s. A dark grey scarf draped gracefully around the neck. Her ensemble was completed with lavish golden gloves that shimmered subtly, holding a brown leather bag with a zip that ran its length, adding an edge and compartmentalised touch - a Miu Miu signature. Sheer tights highlighted her black open-toed heels, showing Miu Miu’s versatility across age groups.
Huilan, a 70-year-old doctor turned social media influencer, gained traction when her son showcased her exquisite Prada and Miu Miu creations on Instagram. With over 40,000 followers today and recognition as one of Shanghai’s ‘best dressed’ to many local editorials, she has amplified Miuccia Prada’s legacy on playfulness and the ability to be chic. Invited to the AW24 show through the DMs, Huilan received a formal invitation days later. Post-show, she shared a heartfelt reflection on her experience:
“I also want to encourage everyone who is confused at a certain point, [to] never give up on your dreams! Before the age of 70, I only cared about my patients as a doctor. Who would've thought that at the age of 70, I would be standing here on a runway today.
Come on! Look! This is Paris! Look! This is MiuMiu’s runway! This is 70-year-old Qin!”
Huilan’s example underscores the importance of valuing clientele and embracing diversity. Despite a trend towards more global representation on runways, FW24 witnessed a concerning decline in diversity, suggesting that calls for inclusivity have waned. Singular figures briefly capturing headlines often overshadow those leading genuine change in the long run, with this article itself being an example of exposing leading by example. But shedding light on these moments, we as a community attempt to create catalysts for critical thinking under the same categories, complicating the systems in their entirety. We believe that we should shed light on topics rather than just glamorizing the moment, which hopefully this investigates.
Ageist stereotypes persist, suggesting fashion is the domain for the young due to the fixation on catering collections and capsules with representatives of the younger generation. Think Tyler the Creator, Billie Eilish, Harry Styles, all youthful leaders who embody what it is to be ‘modern’ who don’t relate to older generations that didn’t grow up with their influences. Yet, youth manifests in myriad ways. Luxury brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and even Prada (as an example) predominantly cater to older, affluent clientele within their stores while fixating on younger audiences through their marketing. These customers represent the epitome of style and influence, challenging the notion that fashion’s appeal is solely young people. Often this creates confusion on who brands are trying to cater for, and the overall imagery of what fashion and beauty is becomes saturated with stereotypes of youthfulness and naivety. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and that beholder is matter of fact, older.
Miuccia Prada’s choice to spotlight Huilan demonstrates her marketing acumen. By expanding the modeling pool and rewarding her most loyal client, she champions inclusivity as Huilan becomes viral from her contributions to the runway. As an older woman herself, Prada celebrates women supporting women– a powerful statement, especially during the bustling Paris Fashion Week where the same demographics on the catwalk are at their highest. Miu Miu’s choice to highlight Huilan’s style prowess was subtle, yet impactful to the larger image of Miu Miu all together. Shouldn’t we all be showcasing a demographic that is most likely to be buying into it?
Is this a nod to realism in fashion? Perhaps. Such moments ground brands in reality, highlighting how minor shifts can spark significant cultural changes if done correctly. The anticipation for Miu Miu’s Paris Fashion Week finale was palpable, and it certainly delivered.